A Day at the Races

I got up early today to get to the horse racing which takes place outside the city. I traveled with the same great people as yesterday. I want to quickly note that for everyone here it seems that the next stops are 1) Bhutan 2) North Korea 3) Afghanistan. I'd knock out #3 and add in South Korea. Shout out to Britan and Nathaniel for keeping me company today and making me feel part of a tricycle rather than a third wheel.

Anyways... The fields and rolling hills were dotted with tents and food selling gers for the big event. Everyone was decked out in traditional garb, especially those who came on their horses- the real badasses with cowboy hats, worn in leather boots, scowls and cigarettes hanging out of their mouths.

I got there in time to see the 5 year old horses race- they are the fastest. They race 30km and the end is packed with excited spectators. When they cross the line the people run and gather to touch the horse because the sweat is supposed to bring good luck. It ends up a minor stampede and then the jockey and the horse owner race away, nearly trampling anyone in their way.

The jockeys are unlike what we have in the US. Jockeys in the US are usually men and always small, right? Like really light and strong. Well, Mongolians know that jockeys should be light, so their jockeys are 5 year old boys and girls. I didn't notice they were children until I saw the pigtails up close. In Mongolia, jockeys are no older than 13 and 3 is considered the best age to start training.

I walked amongst the gers selling huushur, mutton empanadas. We tried our best at archery as the Mongolians chuckled but helped us out. We also got signs made for us in Mongolian script calligraphy. Mine says, "Welcome to Class."

After wandering for some time, we ended up checking out this big blue ger. We thought it might be an indoor restaurant so we milled about trying to get a better view of what was going on. A man outside beckoned us to join him in the ger so we eagerly ducked in. Once inside, we were ushered to sit at seats and quickly given airag, fermented mare's milk, and told to eat from the spread in front of us. Sure. No problem. Then we looked around and there were banners on the wall that made it look like it was run by a mining company (guys in orange and hardhats). At the head of the seated semicircle was a well dressed man who laughed loudly and seemed to get everyone's attention. A man sitting directly to his right excitedly took pictures of us and told us that it was the Ulaanbaatar Electricity Distribution Network's tent. Sweet. We were ceremoniously given mutton meat from the whole sheep at the head's table where there was also a traditional Mongolian cheese and bread platter (SEE ABOVE). Then, they gave us Chinngis Vodka, that's the good stuff, and we toasted with the company to something we couldn't understand. Would ConEd's CEO invite random Mongolian's into his corporate tent at Far Hills? Probably not. I heart Mongolia!